Day 47

We decided to take it slow this morning and let the kids sleep in. We made a giant breakfast that finally pulled them out of bed and talked about what we wanted to do today. Our first order of business was to play Ryan's game now that we could see. Once we got the hang of what we were supposed to be doing I was very impressed with the caliber of the game! It was very fun and sneaky educational teaching the kids about predators and prey. I learned a bunch about the animals of the Grand Canyon!

We hiked to the Grand Canyon Lodge next and got our first views from the North Rim. The hike was just as I remembered with stunning views along the way and dips back into the forest.

The lodge was beautiful inside and we all took a few minutes to look around. The girls learned about Brighty - the mascot of the North Rim. He was befriended by a boy living here back in the late 1800s and began to help him do chores. His payment for his hard work was a stack of pancakes every day. He gave rides to kids and they all rubbed his nose for good luck. We did too!














They also had an interesting display tucked away in the corner that I enjoyed reading. It explained all the levels of rocks in the canyon. The kids realized now why the canyon walls were different colors.


We supported the park with a big purchase at the gift store and t-shirts for everyone except Brayden who only liked a white one. White t-shirts and our children don't mix well. We checked out the visitors center next and got some information on hikes and programs. We decided against hiking more trails in favor of some downtime together at the campground and a couple programs later in the day.

We hiked back to the campground and I was able to take the photo I remember most from eight years ago. Brayden also remembers this spot the most because he was apparently terrified but I had no idea! He was probably double in size now so it must not have bothered him as much.

If there hadn't been a sign I wouldn't have noticed this historical stop on the hike. This was the summer home for ancestral Puebloan farmers of the North Rim. They were able to take advantage of the snow here to harvest their summer crops and move to a warmer spot in the winter to harvest two more. I can't imagine waking up to this view every morning!





We played a few more games then everyone dispersed for some down time. Ryan-the-maker created a strange looking bird that she decided to jump and throw off the picnic table, Brayden and Laney swapped out with my hammock for reading, and Dave read and prepped to leave the next day.


I made us an early dutch oven dinner I'd been trying to make for a few days but finally had time - spinach ravioli bake. Brayden and Ryan ended up having a pine cone war and I'm not quite sure who won. I made half what I normally make and it was just enough for all of us to share. Good thing the boys weren't starving!



















Next up was the California Condor program. We knew absolutely nothing about these birds other than they aren't the most attractive. Our ranger was very knowledgeable and we learned a ton! She started with general facts about the condor and how they lived in this area. They are giant birds with wingspans over 7 feet! Check out their feathers on the tips of their wings compared to the same feather on a turkey vulture and a raven!

Condors were near extinction due to habitat loss and the use of DDT with the count at only 22 birds. They began a breeding program and now that number stands at close to 400. Condors only lay eggs every other year because they take care of their young for a year or more. Scientists working with birds in captivity in the breeding program now take an egg from the pair after it's laid and they will lay another one the next year so their numbers bounce back quicker.

The things threatening condors now are of course people - our garbage and lead from bullets. They eat our garbage and can't digest the plastic and metal in it. They eat the insides of the carcasses of hunted animals and get lead poisoning from the bullets used.

Our ranger ended the program with introducing all kinds of animals around the United States that are also endangered or at risk of being added to the list. Some of the animals I'd never heard of but some like the Key Deer and Alabama Beach Mouse are close to home.

We had an early dessert tonight since we would be attending the evening program at the lodge. S'moreoes are always a hit and so much easier than regular s'mores! They are just as messy though!

The evening program was on the Mexican Spotted Owl. These guys live in caves or small ledges in the canyon and blends in quite well with the color of the walls. They have silent flight like other owls and giant claws to grab unsuspecting mice and other small creatures.

They are also endangered due to habitat loss due to logging. Our ranger brought this heated debate into our program and opened up conversations surrounding which side is right. He showed pictures of the loggers claims of needing to support their families and retain their jobs. Visitors were to pick a side and explain which side was to be the priority.

He extended the conversation to other endangered animals just like our last ranger. He showed pictures of the last male ============================ rhino that died making that species extinct soon. He also showed a very small portion of the list of endangered animals with their numbers and reasons why. It all pointed back at people.

He ended the program on a positive note about things we could do as one person that could make a difference. With more than 7 BILLION people on the planet if everyone could just pick one thing to change just imagine the impact! We all wrote down our answers and some shared their ideas - voting for people who value the environment, supporting causes you believe in that make a difference, consume less, leave a smaller footprint, or spreading knowledge learned like this program.

He ended the program with a surprising statistic that 90% of visitors spend 30 seconds or less at the Grand Canyon. They take their instagramable picture, hop back in the car, and continue on. While I understand that people have different interests and don't have the time we have to explore and enjoy a park, I can't imagine spending such a brief time here.

We talked about this as we drove home and I thought about how fortunate we were to be here. Most people couldn't believe we were spending more than 50 days in a tent traveling in the country and claimed they couldn't do it. I would definitely prefer to stay in a cushy lodge in every park but I wouldn't have seen half the things I've seen or learned half the things I've learned.

We decided on an early bedtime in order to be packed up early to get Dave to the airport early. We had a long drive to get around the canyon to the airport and that was only halfway to our next spot!

Day 40

I set my alarm just in case but of course I was up well before the sun. I edited pictures until Dave woke up and we decided to start breakfast. Dave made a big pot of cheese grits while I prepped all our sandwiches and snacks for the day. The kids were not at all happy when I woke them up at 6:30 but a warm bowl of grits helped a little bit.

We made it to Grammie's spot about 30 minutes early so I got the angry stares from Brayden and Ryan. That meant they could have slept for 30 more minutes! They forgave me a little bit when they realized they had a few minutes to play mini-golf while we waited.  I expected a little shuttle bus to be driving us but it was a very nice and comfy tour bus bringing us into the park. This was definitely worth the investment!

It took us about an hour to get into the park and down to the valley. The views were spectacular with us up high in the bus. I was excited to get my feet on the ground and start hiking the area. I already could tell this was a park I would want to spend at least two weeks hiking on another visit.

Since we weren't staying in the park we didn't have a program schedule or map until we walked into the visitors center. I asked for some advice from the ranger and we were off to see Yosemite Falls. This hike was super easy but the payoff with the view of the falls was wonderful. I could only imagine how huge this waterfall would be in April or May with the snow melt!

 We have definitely gotten used to the 70 degree days and were not enjoying this 90 degree one! We sat in the shade to get some water and let the kids climb around the rocks for a few minutes before continuing on.




The trail was very busy and we overheard accents from all over the world. I would imagine this was an easy trail the majority of people took if they had just a day or afternoon in the park like us.

Our next hike was the Cook's Meadow just across from the falls. Not many people were opting for this trail in the morning heat so we were able to enjoy it a little more. The view of Half Dome and the falls was awesome. We also learned a lot about the Native Americans who called this area home like in many other parks we've visited. The meadow we were standing in was set on fire by the Awaneechee every year to encourage new growth. Once they were pushed out by gold seekers and other settlers they later returned describing the meadow as overgrown and ugly. Today the National Park Service performs prescribed burns in the area to lessen the changes of a fire from lightning as well as to return nutrients to the soil for meadow plants to thrive.

Our next bus took us to Cathedral Beach for lunch and the cool waters of the Merced River. There were ravens staring at as as we ate so we didn't take too long. It was nice to lighten the load of carrying lunch around for a family too!  Dave took the kids down to the water to cool off for a few minutes and check out the view of El Capitan. He made a new friend while he was there!


Earlier this year we went with Grammie to watch the Free Solo movie about the first person to freely climb El Capitan without ropes. It was inspiring, funny, and a little scary too! We gained a whole new perspective once we were standing at the base of the sheer wall. None of us were willing to say we would try that climb!








We hopped on the bus back to the visitors center to enjoy the air conditioning and the movie next.
The kids all placed their votes for the coolest hair first.

This movie was a little different than most with less to learn and more about the beauty and spirit of the area. We stopped by the giant gift store for post cards and stickers then Ryan and I ducked into the museum for a few minutes. We were leaving the park on the first bus to be able to make it back for Lola. We all feel sad for her to have long days locked up in the RV. She probably loves these naps in the AC though!



After we returned to Grammie's spot and everyone got their Lola licks in the kids went to play volleyball with Brayden's mini soccer ball. I ran to the corner grocery story to pick up some kind of fresh something as we were pretty much out of everything fresh. Dinner was quick then the kids were sent begrudgingly for showers. I was excited for mine!




We all smelled so much better as we walked to tonight's outdoor movie - The Goonies! Grammie helped the kids pop the bags of popcorn I'd grabbed so we were set for the night. Well except all of us forgot sweatshirts so by the time the credits started rolling we were more than ready to pack up our chairs and head back.

Brayden and Ryan were excited about being able to sleep in the next day as were Dave and I. We begged Grammie to make her homemade biscuits in the morning for us since she was plugged into power at this park. I had the easy job of just showing up with yogurt and strawberries in the morning!

Day 33

I had to get a picture of the sunflower Laney bought at the farm the day before. We drove by so many farms with sunflowers peeking out 4, 5, and 6 foot tall. A field full was a beautiful sight!

We started today with thick french toast and cheese grits to warm us up. It rained overnight and was super chilly this morning so breakfast was perfect. Our first stop this morning was the Longmire Museum. It was a small building from the early 1900s that was jam-packed with people as well as great exhibits. The kids enjoyed seeing the animals the most. Did you know there is a mountain beaver that doesn't live in water?

This mountain lion took us all a little by surprise around a corner! 

We think we are experts when it comes to animal tracks but we all didn't do very well on this quiz. Some of the alpine animals tripped Laney up but we won't be seeing them back home! 

Out side there was another tree slice we could read historical events on. This tree was at least 8 feet in diameter. You can see Grammie pointing to the date the Declaration of Independence was signed.

 

We visited the gift shop next for post cards and stickers where Brayden spotted Gatorade in a can. I'm not sure what the novelty was about it but he had to spend his money on it! Ryan followed right a long and they both commented it tasted the same as in a plastic bottle. I'm thinking they assumed it would be carbonated? I know I told at least one of them it would be the same thing they've had before. I'm thinking they stopped listening to me long ago.

We stopped in at the Wilderness Info building for trail maps and info on the things we needed to see while we were there. We'd already planned one hike with two waterfalls and fortunately we could get to the trail from our campground. Ryan left a sign for our friends on the car that we'd gone hiking while the other two kids worried someone was going to see it and steal all our stuff. If someone wants a 2-year-old tent that looks like it's 15-years-old then I say they can have it!

When we first arrived at the park yesterday the kids noticed the color of the water - very light gray. I'm assuming it is because of the glacier flour and silt from the mountain? At this spot we crossed the river and could hear constant low booming that sounded like thunder. It was the boulders being spun and tossed in this fast-moving river!






This was the point in the hike where I almost sent Brayden back to the campground. These kids arguing back and forth and assuming intentional harm is so very frustrating.  I know there are crazy hormones and they have been together A LOT lately.  I just wish they would take a 2 second breath before responding  to each other.  I would definitely help curb the angry tones and responses that hurt. Maybe one of these days they will listen.

When the kids see a field of rocks they only see a climbing opportunity. What surprised me today was Laney asking first to climb all the way up! I think this area was an old rock slide or glacier field so I wasn't to keen on them starting another rock slide. They settled on climbing up to a large rock for a picture instead.


We started hearing the water about a half-mile into the hike. It kept getting louder toward the top of each climb and then would seem like we past it one the hike leveled off. We kept wondering it we'd missed the first waterfall until finally we reached Carter Falls at the top of the last steep climb. 

The kids pulled out their snacks while Grammie made her way up to meet us and I took pictures of the leaves around us.  You would think these leaves might be wet from the spray of the waterfall but actually most of the leaves still had water on them from the rain and morning dew.

There was a rockstar mom at this waterfall that was at least 8 months pregnant with a 2 and 4 year old in tow. Start them young!

The next waterfall was just another 50 yards up the trail so we made it to Madcap Falls in no time. This one was a little more difficult to see with it's twists and turns. We thought about climbing down for a better view but decided to head back to our site instead.

On the way up after the river crossing the girls asked me if I saw the cat. I was thinking there was a stray cat hanging out by the river and began to come up with all the reasons why there was no way we would be able to bring a cat home with us. They told me instead there was a cat rock sculpture similar to our family rock stacks so we made sure to slow down and check those out on our way back. By the time we made it there were two new ones!

You'll noticed Grammie no longer has her hiking stick. There was an older gentleman we'd seen slowly making his way back down the trail when we were going up. By the time we came back down he was still having lots of trouble on the trail with his balance around the rocks. She gave him her stick to help and with the help of his companion he seemed to move a little better. There were still many tricky areas for them to cross, including the river!  I love when my kids get to see examples of kindness like this. I hope they grow up to be this way toward perfect strangers and those in need.







We heated up some leftover soup for lunch when we got back and just as we were finishing up the Cook family showed up! They have been in the road for the better part of 2 years and we were so excited to be able to hang out with them! The kids shared animals and sites they'd seen then headed off into the woods to hang out and play. I love they are able to reconnect so easily!

Another not-to-miss spot we were told we should go is up to the top of the mountain at the Paradise visitors center area. The wildflowers were supposed to be in crazy bloom for the summer. We all decided to pile into cars and make the slow drive up. Unfortunately for us the clouds rolled in as we were driving up so not only could we not see the wildflowers but we also couldn't even see the visitors center from the parking lot! And it was COLD! Instead of taking a walk through the flowers we went into the visitors center to check out the museum before they closed. I'd forgotten my camera and phone in my haste to drive up so I didn't get to capture that time.

Once we made it back down we cooked dinner together and shared stories around the campfire. We'd had similar experiences on the road but The Cooks were able to take time to see so much more than us!  We'd already been to some of the area they were heading so I was able to make a few recommendations.

The kids shared s'mores and more laughs before the rain decided we should be done for the night. We quickly got everything out of the rain, gave everyone hugs, and wished safe travels to each other. We'd be seeing them back in Florida in a few months to hear more about their amazing travels.

The girls and I walked Lola in the rain and made it back before the heavier stuff started. The pitter patter of rain drops was going to be our lullaby tonight!

Day 32

I didn't have to wake the kids up this morning as Ryan was excited to be moving today. She was hoping to see our Washington friends later and she'd been counting down the days since we left. She let the air out of Brayden and Laney's sleep mats and rolled on top of them to wake them up. I'm thinking they appreciate my sing song "good morning" much better!

We filled up with warm grits and toast then I placed the box containing the last two cupcakes on the table. I offered a full cupcake to the most helpful person and the other to be shared between the other two kids. Brayden was finished with his breakfast at this point and jumped right in to help. I will have to remember his motivation is food for sure!

We were all packed up and on the Sol Duc Falls trail within about 30 minutes. The parking lot was already filling up so I knew it was going to be a great hike.




We talked about the days ahead and what we were going to be able to do once Dave joins us. It's hard to believe he's finally almost here with us! We are close to making our turn back south toward home.

The falls were beautiful but we didn't stay too long as everyone wanted to get on the road. It was a lovely hike and definitely reset us all to have a fabulous day. The kids' tones and attitudes changed from being short with eachother as we were getting out of the car to laughing siblings again just a half mile down the trail. We need to make morning hikes a thing!

We said goodbye to our ghost host whom we never saw, the smelly springs, the beautiful mountains and glaciers, Lake Crescent, and Port Angeles as we made the turn toward Tacoma and our next spot. When I started seeing signs for lavender fields I remembered I had a possible farm stop on my list. And I'm so glad we stopped! We picked boysenberries, londonberries, bluebberries, and a big bucket of the sweetest raspberries we've ever had.

Three deer were watching us as we picked the boysenberries so I'm sure our row was the perfect one. We'd never picked or tasted boysenberries or londonberries before. I had to taste a few very unripe ones first to find the best color which the kids thought was quite hilarious.

What started as a quick stop to check out the farm ended up being over an hour of picking all kinds of berries. Laney and my favorite were the raspberries - the sweetest I've ever tasted. They were also the size of blackberries!! Anyone who has picked with me before knows I get in picking mode and it's hard to break out of it. I want all the good fruit!  Ryan loved the blueberries the best - she had to run to catch up with us while shoving handfuls into her mouth!

I ended up buying an extra carton of blueberries and we went to enjoy the lavender for a few minutes. About 20 feet away from the field you could already smell it. If only the kids were dressed for a photo shoot!

We made a quick resupply stop at Trader Joe's and started the climb toward Mt. Rainier. This would be our last Washington stop but also a much anticipated one with a visit from friends. We were all set up and eating dinner when they pulled into our site behind us. The kids quickly finished their dinners and picked back up as if we'd seen them yesterday.

They even let me take an actual picture of all of them standing still for 30 seconds! We shared stories, beer, and dump cake around the fire until it was time for them to make the long drive back home. Our visit was short but it definitely made for an excellent day!




Another set of friends were hoping to join us in their RV but they weren't supposed to arrive until later. We reserved a site for them but never heard since I don't have service in the park. The kids wanted to check to see if they arrived so we quietly walked in the misty rain to their spot. They weren't there so we headed back and slipped into our tent. It was drippy and cold so we knew we'd better bundle up close together tonight!