Day 47

We decided to take it slow this morning and let the kids sleep in. We made a giant breakfast that finally pulled them out of bed and talked about what we wanted to do today. Our first order of business was to play Ryan's game now that we could see. Once we got the hang of what we were supposed to be doing I was very impressed with the caliber of the game! It was very fun and sneaky educational teaching the kids about predators and prey. I learned a bunch about the animals of the Grand Canyon!

We hiked to the Grand Canyon Lodge next and got our first views from the North Rim. The hike was just as I remembered with stunning views along the way and dips back into the forest.

The lodge was beautiful inside and we all took a few minutes to look around. The girls learned about Brighty - the mascot of the North Rim. He was befriended by a boy living here back in the late 1800s and began to help him do chores. His payment for his hard work was a stack of pancakes every day. He gave rides to kids and they all rubbed his nose for good luck. We did too!














They also had an interesting display tucked away in the corner that I enjoyed reading. It explained all the levels of rocks in the canyon. The kids realized now why the canyon walls were different colors.


We supported the park with a big purchase at the gift store and t-shirts for everyone except Brayden who only liked a white one. White t-shirts and our children don't mix well. We checked out the visitors center next and got some information on hikes and programs. We decided against hiking more trails in favor of some downtime together at the campground and a couple programs later in the day.

We hiked back to the campground and I was able to take the photo I remember most from eight years ago. Brayden also remembers this spot the most because he was apparently terrified but I had no idea! He was probably double in size now so it must not have bothered him as much.

If there hadn't been a sign I wouldn't have noticed this historical stop on the hike. This was the summer home for ancestral Puebloan farmers of the North Rim. They were able to take advantage of the snow here to harvest their summer crops and move to a warmer spot in the winter to harvest two more. I can't imagine waking up to this view every morning!





We played a few more games then everyone dispersed for some down time. Ryan-the-maker created a strange looking bird that she decided to jump and throw off the picnic table, Brayden and Laney swapped out with my hammock for reading, and Dave read and prepped to leave the next day.


I made us an early dutch oven dinner I'd been trying to make for a few days but finally had time - spinach ravioli bake. Brayden and Ryan ended up having a pine cone war and I'm not quite sure who won. I made half what I normally make and it was just enough for all of us to share. Good thing the boys weren't starving!



















Next up was the California Condor program. We knew absolutely nothing about these birds other than they aren't the most attractive. Our ranger was very knowledgeable and we learned a ton! She started with general facts about the condor and how they lived in this area. They are giant birds with wingspans over 7 feet! Check out their feathers on the tips of their wings compared to the same feather on a turkey vulture and a raven!

Condors were near extinction due to habitat loss and the use of DDT with the count at only 22 birds. They began a breeding program and now that number stands at close to 400. Condors only lay eggs every other year because they take care of their young for a year or more. Scientists working with birds in captivity in the breeding program now take an egg from the pair after it's laid and they will lay another one the next year so their numbers bounce back quicker.

The things threatening condors now are of course people - our garbage and lead from bullets. They eat our garbage and can't digest the plastic and metal in it. They eat the insides of the carcasses of hunted animals and get lead poisoning from the bullets used.

Our ranger ended the program with introducing all kinds of animals around the United States that are also endangered or at risk of being added to the list. Some of the animals I'd never heard of but some like the Key Deer and Alabama Beach Mouse are close to home.

We had an early dessert tonight since we would be attending the evening program at the lodge. S'moreoes are always a hit and so much easier than regular s'mores! They are just as messy though!

The evening program was on the Mexican Spotted Owl. These guys live in caves or small ledges in the canyon and blends in quite well with the color of the walls. They have silent flight like other owls and giant claws to grab unsuspecting mice and other small creatures.

They are also endangered due to habitat loss due to logging. Our ranger brought this heated debate into our program and opened up conversations surrounding which side is right. He showed pictures of the loggers claims of needing to support their families and retain their jobs. Visitors were to pick a side and explain which side was to be the priority.

He extended the conversation to other endangered animals just like our last ranger. He showed pictures of the last male ============================ rhino that died making that species extinct soon. He also showed a very small portion of the list of endangered animals with their numbers and reasons why. It all pointed back at people.

He ended the program on a positive note about things we could do as one person that could make a difference. With more than 7 BILLION people on the planet if everyone could just pick one thing to change just imagine the impact! We all wrote down our answers and some shared their ideas - voting for people who value the environment, supporting causes you believe in that make a difference, consume less, leave a smaller footprint, or spreading knowledge learned like this program.

He ended the program with a surprising statistic that 90% of visitors spend 30 seconds or less at the Grand Canyon. They take their instagramable picture, hop back in the car, and continue on. While I understand that people have different interests and don't have the time we have to explore and enjoy a park, I can't imagine spending such a brief time here.

We talked about this as we drove home and I thought about how fortunate we were to be here. Most people couldn't believe we were spending more than 50 days in a tent traveling in the country and claimed they couldn't do it. I would definitely prefer to stay in a cushy lodge in every park but I wouldn't have seen half the things I've seen or learned half the things I've learned.

We decided on an early bedtime in order to be packed up early to get Dave to the airport early. We had a long drive to get around the canyon to the airport and that was only halfway to our next spot!

Day 42

Dave and I were up early to get things organized to get back on the road today. I worked on the bear box and the inside of the car while he packed up our tent. It's so nice to have another adult!! Once breakfast was ready we got the kids up and Dave started working on their tent. We made it to Grammie's spot with time for a couple holes of mini golf while she filled up with propane. Grammie had an audiobook she thought all the kids would enjoy so they all hopped into the RV with her for the drive.

Our route today was to take us through the southern portion of Yosemite toward Sequoia. There were several tunnels along the way - one marked at 10'4" - that we were all nervous about the RV making it through. We had seen many RVs past the point of the tunnels and had also traveled on a tour bus through them so we hoped all would be fine.

We were leading so as I looked back in the mirror going through the first tunnel marked at 13' it appeared to me that she still had 6 more feet of room. They do mark the tunnel height from the top of the curb to the lowest point of the arched top. Meanwhile Grammie's GPS is screaming at her to warn her of the low clearance the entire time.

Next was the lowest tunnel but at least it was short in length. If necessary she could move to the middle of the road at the highest point of the roof to make it through before meeting oncoming traffic. She didn't really need to though because as I held my breath and looked back she still had at least 4 more feet of room. No problem! We beeped our horns for Ryan and a little bit in celebration of making it through tunnel #1 and #2.

Each time we'd driven or been driven into Yosemite we'd all noticed this farm in a valley. There weren't many pull offs so I managed to snap a picture as Dave slowed down just before a turn. I learned these barns were all built in the late 1800s and are the last remaining barns in the park. They are unique because they were built in the "Mormon Pole Barn" style unusual for this area of California.

Tunnel #3 was an easy high one then we turned south and stopped at the popular Tunnel View spot just before out last tunnel. This overlook was created in the 1930s by the CCC to give visitors an amazing view of Yosemite Valley. It was crowded but provided a lovely view of the valley. It wasn't near as good as our view the night before at Glacier Point though! You can see El Capitan on the left and Half Dome far back on the right. We also spotted Bridal Veil Falls - one of the hikes we decided to skip.

The last and longest tunnel I didn't even get to see Grammie go through as she went on ahead without us. We did find her on the other side with all her parts so all seemed well! We stopped at the Wawona Visitors Center to get the kids' passports stamped since I'd forgotten them our first day. There was a ranger outside doing a program on coyotes so we listened for a little while. Did you know coyotes are found in every county in every state today? We touched the coat she had displayed - it was so soft!

About halfway through our drive we stopped at Walmart for a resupply and gas. We had three days ahead of us in Sequoia National Park and now we had a jam packed full cooler. I even had to disassemble some containers so everything could fit!

I set the GPS to our campground as we followed Grammie but it wasn't very happy with her route. I finally muted her and just watched the scenery. We made it into Kings Canyon National Park after about an hour when the real crazy roads began. We traveled the winding General's Highway until we reached Grammie's campground.

We grabbed two kids and continued on to our spot to set up. I routinely consult a website for site reviews and suggestions on the best campsite in a campground. While this spot was tough to find a flat space for our tents it had loads of exploring potential for the kids up the rocky mountain behind us.

As we drove in I noticed a sign with the number of days since the last bear incident. They'd had 5 bear break-ins in the last 7 days. We were definitely in some strict bear country! All food and anything else with a smell including our laundry soap, first aid kits, and unopened drinks and water had to be stored in the bear box at our site. We were used to storing our shower bags and food but wow! Families with toddlers were even advised to pull out their child's car seats and place them inside or on top of the bear box. With our resupply at Walmart that day I wasn't sure it was all going to fit!

Dave and I discussed some different dinner options on our drive today and I remembered I'd brought our dutch oven and had barely used it! Tonight we decided on dutch oven nachos which excited everyone! We made a giant spicy pile and a giant non-spicy pile and we all dug in. I would venture to say these nachos were better than the ones we make in the kitchen at home! Of course, everything tastes better in the woods.

With full bellies Dave, Ryan, and I decided to go searching for the campground amphitheater. While I was cooking the ranger stopped by to tell us about the program and she told me simply it was "just down the hill". We walked down the hill for at least a mile and had only found one vague sign pointing straight ahead so we decided to turn around and drive there when it was time.

The whole time we were walking however we noticed a park ranger patrolling the area as well as the Bear Management team. I assumed it was a normal patrol with everyone cooking dinner and the smells coming from every site. Once we saw the park ranger for the fifth time I decided it was a little more. We were almost back to Grammie's loop when we saw the Bear Management guys out of the truck talking to the ranger. One guy had what looked like a shot gun (rubber bullets I'm sure) and the other was wearing a giant backpack and holding a radio receiver antenna. We were finally going to see bears this trip!

Next to the road in a small meadow next to the woods was a yearling rustling around in the grass. I was bummed I didn't bring the camera! We'd learned on previous trips that these younger bears are often the ones who make the riskiest decisions being away from mom now. We watched him head back toward the woods as the shot gun guy walked into the meadow and that is when we saw another bear hanging out on a log watching him. They had a stare down for a minute or so before he retreated as well. These teenagery bears must be familiar with the rangers and their rubber bullets.

The program tonight was excellent detailing the history of the area and much about how the park came to be. Our interest about the Buffalo Soldiers was piqued and we learned about Morro Rock which we'd be visiting our second day in the park.

We left Grammie and Ryan with plans to meet back up in the morning and utilize the park shuttles to hit the not-to-miss spots on our list. It was already chilly as we zipped up our sleeping bags. Did I mention this is my favorite weather?