Day 47

We decided to take it slow this morning and let the kids sleep in. We made a giant breakfast that finally pulled them out of bed and talked about what we wanted to do today. Our first order of business was to play Ryan's game now that we could see. Once we got the hang of what we were supposed to be doing I was very impressed with the caliber of the game! It was very fun and sneaky educational teaching the kids about predators and prey. I learned a bunch about the animals of the Grand Canyon!

We hiked to the Grand Canyon Lodge next and got our first views from the North Rim. The hike was just as I remembered with stunning views along the way and dips back into the forest.

The lodge was beautiful inside and we all took a few minutes to look around. The girls learned about Brighty - the mascot of the North Rim. He was befriended by a boy living here back in the late 1800s and began to help him do chores. His payment for his hard work was a stack of pancakes every day. He gave rides to kids and they all rubbed his nose for good luck. We did too!














They also had an interesting display tucked away in the corner that I enjoyed reading. It explained all the levels of rocks in the canyon. The kids realized now why the canyon walls were different colors.


We supported the park with a big purchase at the gift store and t-shirts for everyone except Brayden who only liked a white one. White t-shirts and our children don't mix well. We checked out the visitors center next and got some information on hikes and programs. We decided against hiking more trails in favor of some downtime together at the campground and a couple programs later in the day.

We hiked back to the campground and I was able to take the photo I remember most from eight years ago. Brayden also remembers this spot the most because he was apparently terrified but I had no idea! He was probably double in size now so it must not have bothered him as much.

If there hadn't been a sign I wouldn't have noticed this historical stop on the hike. This was the summer home for ancestral Puebloan farmers of the North Rim. They were able to take advantage of the snow here to harvest their summer crops and move to a warmer spot in the winter to harvest two more. I can't imagine waking up to this view every morning!





We played a few more games then everyone dispersed for some down time. Ryan-the-maker created a strange looking bird that she decided to jump and throw off the picnic table, Brayden and Laney swapped out with my hammock for reading, and Dave read and prepped to leave the next day.


I made us an early dutch oven dinner I'd been trying to make for a few days but finally had time - spinach ravioli bake. Brayden and Ryan ended up having a pine cone war and I'm not quite sure who won. I made half what I normally make and it was just enough for all of us to share. Good thing the boys weren't starving!



















Next up was the California Condor program. We knew absolutely nothing about these birds other than they aren't the most attractive. Our ranger was very knowledgeable and we learned a ton! She started with general facts about the condor and how they lived in this area. They are giant birds with wingspans over 7 feet! Check out their feathers on the tips of their wings compared to the same feather on a turkey vulture and a raven!

Condors were near extinction due to habitat loss and the use of DDT with the count at only 22 birds. They began a breeding program and now that number stands at close to 400. Condors only lay eggs every other year because they take care of their young for a year or more. Scientists working with birds in captivity in the breeding program now take an egg from the pair after it's laid and they will lay another one the next year so their numbers bounce back quicker.

The things threatening condors now are of course people - our garbage and lead from bullets. They eat our garbage and can't digest the plastic and metal in it. They eat the insides of the carcasses of hunted animals and get lead poisoning from the bullets used.

Our ranger ended the program with introducing all kinds of animals around the United States that are also endangered or at risk of being added to the list. Some of the animals I'd never heard of but some like the Key Deer and Alabama Beach Mouse are close to home.

We had an early dessert tonight since we would be attending the evening program at the lodge. S'moreoes are always a hit and so much easier than regular s'mores! They are just as messy though!

The evening program was on the Mexican Spotted Owl. These guys live in caves or small ledges in the canyon and blends in quite well with the color of the walls. They have silent flight like other owls and giant claws to grab unsuspecting mice and other small creatures.

They are also endangered due to habitat loss due to logging. Our ranger brought this heated debate into our program and opened up conversations surrounding which side is right. He showed pictures of the loggers claims of needing to support their families and retain their jobs. Visitors were to pick a side and explain which side was to be the priority.

He extended the conversation to other endangered animals just like our last ranger. He showed pictures of the last male ============================ rhino that died making that species extinct soon. He also showed a very small portion of the list of endangered animals with their numbers and reasons why. It all pointed back at people.

He ended the program on a positive note about things we could do as one person that could make a difference. With more than 7 BILLION people on the planet if everyone could just pick one thing to change just imagine the impact! We all wrote down our answers and some shared their ideas - voting for people who value the environment, supporting causes you believe in that make a difference, consume less, leave a smaller footprint, or spreading knowledge learned like this program.

He ended the program with a surprising statistic that 90% of visitors spend 30 seconds or less at the Grand Canyon. They take their instagramable picture, hop back in the car, and continue on. While I understand that people have different interests and don't have the time we have to explore and enjoy a park, I can't imagine spending such a brief time here.

We talked about this as we drove home and I thought about how fortunate we were to be here. Most people couldn't believe we were spending more than 50 days in a tent traveling in the country and claimed they couldn't do it. I would definitely prefer to stay in a cushy lodge in every park but I wouldn't have seen half the things I've seen or learned half the things I've learned.

We decided on an early bedtime in order to be packed up early to get Dave to the airport early. We had a long drive to get around the canyon to the airport and that was only halfway to our next spot!

Day 38

I was up early ready to pack up our canvas houses and hit the road for our next spot. We had a relatively easy drive through small towns and national forest so Dave drove while I tried to catch up on editing pictures and posting. We decided to skip any stops and head straight to Lassen Volcanic National Park to enjoy the area. It seemed like the kids might need a down day to relax and play too. We entered California with a very different, quiet reaction than the first time about a month ago. While I am looking forward to being back home the reality is setting in that it will be in less than 2 weeks!

Our first stop in the park was the visitors center for the park movie and hiking advice.  The movie was interesting teaching us more about volcanoes. This park is one of the few areas in the world where all four types of volcano can be found—plug dome, shield, cinder cone, and stratovolcano. It also doesn't have any glaciers but instead has 14 permanent snow fields. Lassen Peak is the largest plug dome volcano in the world. There are also mud pots and other hydrothermic features in the park that we would drive by the next day.

As we drove through the park I was hoping to get a get view of the peak for a picture. Since we weren't hanging around for a day to hike I wasn't sure that I would see it again after the entrance. It did peek out from the trees at one stop.

Dave and I are curious why this isn't a more popular national park. It was small but definitely has a lot to offer. I was disappointed we were only staying here one night and I will absolutely be back!

We were definitely returning to warmer days so after we set up the kids decided they wanted to swim. The lake next to our campsite looked refreshing and was sprinkled with people swimming and paddle boarding.There was a perfect log floating in the lake where the kids got in so they were able to put their log rolling practice to the test. Except for Ryan accidentally falling in no one actually swam as the water was quite cold, especially in the shade.

Our site was still hot in the sun so we decided to walk to Grammie's site to cook dinner. There was a nice trail between our campgrounds around the clear little lake the kids tried to swim in. It also had a tiny little view of Lassen Peak.  I was excited for a picture in the early morning with a quiet, calm lake and maybe even a little sunrise colors the next morning!

Grammie had us a nice fire ready after dinner where the kids made s'mores and we talked about our plans for our next stop - Yosemite National Park. It was one I was looking forward to except for the sheer amount of people that would be there.  We had a long drive ahead of us the next day so we decided to get some sleep and pull out early in the morning. I was excited to drive through the rest of the park in the morning!

Day 33

I had to get a picture of the sunflower Laney bought at the farm the day before. We drove by so many farms with sunflowers peeking out 4, 5, and 6 foot tall. A field full was a beautiful sight!

We started today with thick french toast and cheese grits to warm us up. It rained overnight and was super chilly this morning so breakfast was perfect. Our first stop this morning was the Longmire Museum. It was a small building from the early 1900s that was jam-packed with people as well as great exhibits. The kids enjoyed seeing the animals the most. Did you know there is a mountain beaver that doesn't live in water?

This mountain lion took us all a little by surprise around a corner! 

We think we are experts when it comes to animal tracks but we all didn't do very well on this quiz. Some of the alpine animals tripped Laney up but we won't be seeing them back home! 

Out side there was another tree slice we could read historical events on. This tree was at least 8 feet in diameter. You can see Grammie pointing to the date the Declaration of Independence was signed.

 

We visited the gift shop next for post cards and stickers where Brayden spotted Gatorade in a can. I'm not sure what the novelty was about it but he had to spend his money on it! Ryan followed right a long and they both commented it tasted the same as in a plastic bottle. I'm thinking they assumed it would be carbonated? I know I told at least one of them it would be the same thing they've had before. I'm thinking they stopped listening to me long ago.

We stopped in at the Wilderness Info building for trail maps and info on the things we needed to see while we were there. We'd already planned one hike with two waterfalls and fortunately we could get to the trail from our campground. Ryan left a sign for our friends on the car that we'd gone hiking while the other two kids worried someone was going to see it and steal all our stuff. If someone wants a 2-year-old tent that looks like it's 15-years-old then I say they can have it!

When we first arrived at the park yesterday the kids noticed the color of the water - very light gray. I'm assuming it is because of the glacier flour and silt from the mountain? At this spot we crossed the river and could hear constant low booming that sounded like thunder. It was the boulders being spun and tossed in this fast-moving river!






This was the point in the hike where I almost sent Brayden back to the campground. These kids arguing back and forth and assuming intentional harm is so very frustrating.  I know there are crazy hormones and they have been together A LOT lately.  I just wish they would take a 2 second breath before responding  to each other.  I would definitely help curb the angry tones and responses that hurt. Maybe one of these days they will listen.

When the kids see a field of rocks they only see a climbing opportunity. What surprised me today was Laney asking first to climb all the way up! I think this area was an old rock slide or glacier field so I wasn't to keen on them starting another rock slide. They settled on climbing up to a large rock for a picture instead.


We started hearing the water about a half-mile into the hike. It kept getting louder toward the top of each climb and then would seem like we past it one the hike leveled off. We kept wondering it we'd missed the first waterfall until finally we reached Carter Falls at the top of the last steep climb. 

The kids pulled out their snacks while Grammie made her way up to meet us and I took pictures of the leaves around us.  You would think these leaves might be wet from the spray of the waterfall but actually most of the leaves still had water on them from the rain and morning dew.

There was a rockstar mom at this waterfall that was at least 8 months pregnant with a 2 and 4 year old in tow. Start them young!

The next waterfall was just another 50 yards up the trail so we made it to Madcap Falls in no time. This one was a little more difficult to see with it's twists and turns. We thought about climbing down for a better view but decided to head back to our site instead.

On the way up after the river crossing the girls asked me if I saw the cat. I was thinking there was a stray cat hanging out by the river and began to come up with all the reasons why there was no way we would be able to bring a cat home with us. They told me instead there was a cat rock sculpture similar to our family rock stacks so we made sure to slow down and check those out on our way back. By the time we made it there were two new ones!

You'll noticed Grammie no longer has her hiking stick. There was an older gentleman we'd seen slowly making his way back down the trail when we were going up. By the time we came back down he was still having lots of trouble on the trail with his balance around the rocks. She gave him her stick to help and with the help of his companion he seemed to move a little better. There were still many tricky areas for them to cross, including the river!  I love when my kids get to see examples of kindness like this. I hope they grow up to be this way toward perfect strangers and those in need.







We heated up some leftover soup for lunch when we got back and just as we were finishing up the Cook family showed up! They have been in the road for the better part of 2 years and we were so excited to be able to hang out with them! The kids shared animals and sites they'd seen then headed off into the woods to hang out and play. I love they are able to reconnect so easily!

Another not-to-miss spot we were told we should go is up to the top of the mountain at the Paradise visitors center area. The wildflowers were supposed to be in crazy bloom for the summer. We all decided to pile into cars and make the slow drive up. Unfortunately for us the clouds rolled in as we were driving up so not only could we not see the wildflowers but we also couldn't even see the visitors center from the parking lot! And it was COLD! Instead of taking a walk through the flowers we went into the visitors center to check out the museum before they closed. I'd forgotten my camera and phone in my haste to drive up so I didn't get to capture that time.

Once we made it back down we cooked dinner together and shared stories around the campfire. We'd had similar experiences on the road but The Cooks were able to take time to see so much more than us!  We'd already been to some of the area they were heading so I was able to make a few recommendations.

The kids shared s'mores and more laughs before the rain decided we should be done for the night. We quickly got everything out of the rain, gave everyone hugs, and wished safe travels to each other. We'd be seeing them back in Florida in a few months to hear more about their amazing travels.

The girls and I walked Lola in the rain and made it back before the heavier stuff started. The pitter patter of rain drops was going to be our lullaby tonight!

Day 23

The night before I told the kids to start packing up their tent when they woke up. I assumed they would wake up around 7:30 as they have been but not today. When I got back from talking to Dave about some house decisions all was still quiet at our site except for some very annoying Stellars Jays trying to eat Ryan's bag of rocks.

We were supposed to meet Lola and Grammie at the beach this morning to be on our way into Oregon. Of course we were late but the Grammie got to catch up on some phone calls while we enjoyed the beach once we got there. The horrible mother I am made the kids go wash their feet in the ice cold ocean since we hadn't showered in a few days. Their feet were beyond camp brown color.

Within a few miles from getting on the road we were in Oregon! The girls enjoy time in the car when Brayden rides with Grammie. Besides the obvious no brother celebration they also have started listening to the 6 Minutes podcast for kids. We are close to halfway through now. It's a mystery that we are all glad we waited until all episodes came out. Each episode has a serious cliffhanger the original listeners had to wait a week to resolve!











Our scenic road took us past some very interesting rock formations but Grammie couldn't begin to fit her RV to park so we went into the town of Gold Beach and piled everyone in my car and went back.

Our first stop was the Oregon Beach. The wind was blowing the sand just right for natural soft dunes. Soon after we stopped at the Natural Bridges. This is definitely on my future hikes list!

The next stop was Arch Rock where we learned about some of the local birds. It was nice to finally be able to bring Lola on a trail now. Dogs have not been allowed on trails in California because of the wildlife. Arch Rock is where I added kayaks to my list for the next time I'm here.

A few days before Brayden spotted a brochure for a wild safari park in Oregon right on our way to our next city. The kids were excited because today we were actually able to go! Our first stop inside was the petting/feeding area where the kids were very popular! I didn't get a single picture of Brayden feeding anything because a deer ate his food in one bite!

Ryan made a friend with a baby goat! He just kept following her around even though she was out of food.

Next the kids went in to pet a lynx. This little guy was very unpredictable and playful. He climbed up the legs of the girls that went in before them!

Baby animals are always a hit in our family so we visited the nursery next. The first baby was a cavy. He wasn't a baby but he had a baby girl in his room with him. This guy was basically a giant guinea pig.

The ferrets came out next. My kids hold these guys all the time at the pet store and instantly want to bring them home. This guy was still half asleep I think so he was very relaxed.

Eclaire the skunk was next. She was a baby skunk that had been de-scented. She had the sweetest little brown face and the softest fur.

Lucy the possum was brought out next. The handler said anyone 13 and older can hold her so I begged Brayden to try it but he refused. Grammie takes care of these guys all the time at the Wildlife Sanctuary and we probably release 5-6 on her property every month. But she still couldn't convince him. The girls wanted to hold her of course but were just under 13. So I held her. She was super gentle and sweet like a little baby and much more fluffy than the possums Grammie brings home!

We all got to pet 13-week old Phyllis the groundhog next. We'd seen these guys all over the midwest on our trip a few years ago so it was fun to actually be able to pet her.

Last and definitely my favorite was Groot the 13-week old raccoon. Anyone 13 or older could hold her but Brayden refused again. The girls were grimacing at me. If only they were 2 months older! She was fascinated by just about everything and just wanted to touch it with her soft hands. She pawed my ring then my shirt and the straps on my backpack. She loved feeling all of Grammie's necklaces.

Ryan's goat found her while we were learning about the raccoon and why Laney couldn't have one as a pet like she wanted. I have my list of hikes and places to return with Dave, the girls have their list of pets they want. And it's a long list!

One of the handlers had a 3 month old Siberian Brown Bear out so we all pet him next. He was 100% focused on his bottle the whole time. I just wanted to scratch his little fluffy ears so bad!

And Ryan's goat found her again.

Last up was the serval. The kids all handed me their phones to get pics with so I only got a few with my camera.

Ryan grabbed my camera to make sure she could get a good picture of her goat friend before we left. If I had looked the other way I think she might have smuggled him out with us!

About 45 minutes later we made it to our very busy and crowded campground. There is definitely a difference between camping at a national and state park but this one was more like a city park with super close sites and hundreds of them all crammed in together.



We decided on a quick dinner of sandwiches and salad before I made all of us take a shower. We were all pretty stinky and I knew we would feel much better after. By the time we got back to Grammie's spot she already had a fire going for us.







Going back and forth from Grammie's site we'd watched a girl meticulously write out the lyrics to Bohemian Rhapsody in chalk on the campground road. I think she might be destined to be a teacher!

We talked and played a game before the girls and I went back to our site to bundle up and read. It was a pretty warm day but I could tell it was going to get cold tonight!